#OPENSPRINKLER 3D ENCLOSURE FREE#
The solder joints should be clean and free of any solder bridge.
After insertion, double check and make sure no pin is left out or twisted. This notch should match up with the silkscreen on the PCB. Every socket has a small notch (see the picture below) to help identify the orientation. Before inserting the IC sockets to the PCB, check to make sure all pins are straight. Next, solder the two IC sockets (40-pin and 28-pin).
Again, make sure the longer lead goes to the hole marked +. To double check, there is a white stripe on the capacitor body which points to the negative lead.Ĭontinue to solder C2 (same size as C1), and C3 (smaller). Electrolytic capacitors are polarized: make sure the longer (positive) lead goes into the hole marked with +. Now solder C1, a big electrolytic capacitor. ( Update:: on the Nov/14 Revision, the capacitors C1, C2, C3 below are renamed C0, C1, C2, and their positions are shown in the picture on the left). Next, also solder crystal X2 - it’s a 32.768kHz cylindrical crystal for the Real-Time Clock (RTC). After soldering, use a diagonal cutter to clip the excessive leads. Make sure your soldering iron is hot, and can easily melt and reflow solder. This way you can solder multiple components at once. You can use as many pieces of tapes as you need. To increase productivity, I usually insert multiple components, and use painter’s tape to fix them in place (see image on the left). To solder, insert the components through the PCB holes. Crystals are non-polar, so it doesn’t matter which orientation you insert them. It’s important you don’t mix them up, otherwise the controller will not work. Check the images on the left to see where they are located. The two crystals have exactly the same shape, so you must read the label on the components to tell them apart. Start with crystals X0 (16MHz) and X1 (25MHz). Remember: all images on this page are ‘clickable’. (If possible, use a fume extractor to help remove solder fumes). To begin, place the PCB onto a a vise, and turn on the soldering iron. Nov/14), the reference images of the assembled board as below: Update: if you have received the Nov 14 Revision of DIY 2.2u (check the upper-left corner of the PCB and see if it says Rev.
#OPENSPRINKLER 3D ENCLOSURE FULL#
Click the images to see them in full resolution. To give you a heads up, here are two high resolution images of the assembled board (front and back). They are available in many brands and a variety of places (Lowes, Home Depot, Amazon…). If you have an existing sprinkler system, you should have these parts already installed, and you can reuse your existing sprinkler transformer if not, you can purchase them online or at local retail stores. DO NOT throw away the plastic bag until you are done with soldering.Īdditionally, you need a sprinkler valve transformer (rated 24∼28V AC) and one or more sprinkler valves. Small components may get stuck in the plastic bag. Before soldering, carefully place the components in a box or container. Warning: electronic components are small and easy to lose. Cold soldering iron is a major source of soldering failure. The most important tool is a good and hot soldering iron: it should provide high temperature to melt and reflow solder. If you are new to soldering, please take a look at the Preparation page. OpenSprinkler v2.2u kit includes a semi-assembled circuit board, through-hole components, LCD, and plastic enclosure.
( Note: all images below are ‘clickable’, in order for you to see the full-resolution details.
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